While the USA is the world's fourth-largest wine producer, California alone is responsible for
some 90 per cent of it, so it's clear that the balance is spread rather thinly across the
remaining states, especially if you take the burgeoning Pacific Northwest region and New York
State out of the equation.
California
America's principal wine state was the world's leading force in creating and marketing varietal wines
in the 1970s. But equally important was the ability of its pioneers to challenge France as the world’s
greatest quality
wine nation by turning traditional winemaking practices on their head with huge
success. Indeed, in 1976, two of its wines beat some of
France's most illustrious wines hands down in
a blind tasting competition.
By the 1980s, the quizzical wine drinker could splash out on anything
rom the top-notch, Bordeaux style Opus One to the highly quaffable, more affordable carafe wines.
But bust always has the knack of following boom in California and in the early 1990s this came in
the form of a crippling attack of phylloxera and many growers were forced to replant their vine yards.
This, however, provided the perfect opportunity to introduce new clones matched to optimum growing
conditions and to address other key viticultural issues. California is bigger than Italy, after all,
and there is a complex mosaic of soils and terrain and in spite of its 'land of sunshine' reputation
many parts are distinctly chilly owing to the fog that is funnelled up the valleys from the Humboldt
Current cooled Pacific Ocean. Indeed, some areas are too cold and wet to support viticulture.
REGIONAL ROUNDUP
California's major wine regions
And their most important AVAs
Carneros
This AVA (shared between Napa and Sonoma counties) is an important location for Chardonnay and
Pinot Noir. It's cool, thanks to summer morning fogs and the winds that follow as they burn off,
so the grapes are high in acidity, making them ideal for sparkling wines, though good still wines
are also produced.
Central Valley
This vast, baking hot, arid wilderness is California's most prolific grape-producing region,
responsible for over 50 per cent of the state's total wine crush, though most of the grapes are
turned into jug wine for domestic consumption. The world's largest winery, owned by E & J Gallo,
is located here and makes almost as much wine as the whole of Australia. Some thought! The most
important AVA is Lodi, a popular source of grapes that often end up in other AVA wines. Under
Californian labelling rules, up to 25 per cent of any quality Californian wine can be made from
grapes grown outside the origin stated on the label - and Lodi is very often that 'outside origin'.
Lake County
Cut off from the influence of the Pacific Ocean by the coastal mountains, this land locked county
is good territory for Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel and Rhone and Italian varietals
owing to its relative warmth. Most of the vineyards are concentrated in Clear Lake AVA. The eponymous
lake is California's largest.
Napa County
Of all of this county's somewhat fragmented AVAs, Napa Valley has attained worldwide tame as the
premier wine area of the USA and is home to 30 per cent of the state's wineries. Grape growers and
winemakers alike combine cutting -edge technology with traditional techniques, and many of California's
finest, most strapping Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots spring from here
(especially in the sub appellations of Oakville, Rutherford and Stags Leap District), wines that
Robert Louis Stevenson described as 'bottled poetry'.
Extract from “Wine – a comprehensive guide to drinking and appreciating wine”,
written by Julie Arkell. London. Cape Town. Sydney. Auckland: New Holland Publishers, 2003.
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